2. Camera scanning (negatives), spectral lighting testing, Dynamic range tests
  3. Camera scanning negatives and slides

Alternate negative carrier

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I cut two of the 1/8" strips of cardboard so they are about 2 3/4" long. I centered them one in the film sprocket area and covered them with two pieces of art tape that are long enough to wrap around to the front of the disk. I secured the ends of the art tape with small strips of Scotch tape.<br /> <br /> I left the bottom of the cardboard unsecured so I can slip pieces of paper under the cardboard as shims. To adjust the tension against the film sprocket hole areas. Too loose, and the film isn't held flat. Too tight and I can't feed the film.
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I cut two of the 1/8" strips of cardboard so they are about 2 3/4" long. I centered them one in the film sprocket area and covered them with two pieces of art tape that are long enough to wrap around to the front of the disk. I secured the ends of the art tape with small strips of Scotch tape.

I left the bottom of the cardboard unsecured so I can slip pieces of paper under the cardboard as shims. To adjust the tension against the film sprocket hole areas. Too loose, and the film isn't held flat. Too tight and I can't feed the film.

  • I used Art tape (which appears to be black electrician's tape cut so it is 1/8" wide.)
  • I cut 1/8" strips from a piece of cardboard like this. This cardboard is about the correct thickness and is hard and compact.
  • I cut two of the 1/8" strips of cardboard so they are about 2 3/4" long. I centered them one in the film sprocket area and covered them with two pieces of art tape that are long enough to wrap around to the front of the disk. I secured the ends of the art tape with small strips of Scotch tape.<br /> <br /> I left the bottom of the cardboard unsecured so I can slip pieces of paper under the cardboard as shims. To adjust the tension against the film sprocket hole areas. Too loose, and the film isn't held flat. Too tight and I can't feed the film.
  • I cut two of the 1/8" strips of cardboard so they are slightly longer than the image area. I cut pieces of art tape so they are about 4 1/4" long (so they wrap completely around the slide mount with a bit of overlap. (This side faces the film.)
  • It is now ready to install on the Extend-a-Slide.
  • Shows how the art tape is secured on the front of the Extend-a-slide. The art tape isn't sticky enough to hold itself--it needs the Scotch tape.
  • Carrier mounted on Extend-a-Slide. Illuminated by softbox with CFL lamps. It is diffused by three layers of Rosco #3026 "Tough White" one stop diffusing material. (The original plastic disk has about three stops of loss.) A single layer on the frame that is closest to the softbox. Two layers on the frame that is closest to the Extend-a-Slide. Position the two stop diffuser so it is as close to the Extend-a-Slide *without* coming into focus when the lens is focused onto a negative. (Insert negative into carrier, manually focus, remove negative and ensure that the diffuser panel isn't in focus.)<br /> <br /> A piece of the plastic disk will work also, but the Rosco diffusion material is lighter and is easier to suspend with clips. (In this case, Radio Shack clamp-on microphone stand adapters (part number 33-372) mounted on goosenecks and mike stands that I already had.)
  • Adjust the color temperature controls so that the histogram doesn't clip on either end.
  • Convert negative with your choice of tools. In this case, I used PhotoShop's Levels and Curves tools.
  • 100 percent crop which shows how much detail the image has. If you aren't looking at this in Slideshow mode, hover over the image and select "Original" View Size to actually see it at 100% size.
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